Day 6: Grunas waterfall

This morning we woke up at Villa Molla, a guesthouse on the mountain right above the valley of Theth. Important tip (perhaps obvious): if travelling in July in company (we were 5 adults and 2 children), make arrangements in advance! As Theth is increasingly popular, rooms fill up quickly!

We were very lucky to catch the last rooms here. The guesthouse is run by an Albanian family living in Italy, they return to Theth only in the summer season. Accordingly: the rooms are of western-European quality, it could easily compete in Austria or in the Italian Dolomites. Notably, the dinner prices are also at that standard.

Nevertheless, I was so happy to be here and play some football with S. in the morning in the garden with the most fantastic views!

Our accommodation in Theth

Sadly, we could only spend one night. After packing our luggage ( for the 4th time in just 6 days), we headed down to the village by car, more specifically to the closest parking to the Grunas waterfall.

Infrastructure around here develops really quickly and Google maps was not aware of the new bridge connecting the asfalt road with the parking. Therefore, we drove through the village on a very bumpy and stoney road. Really silly, as we drove by the bridge just the day before.

Take home message: if you wish for a better road, just look for one. Probably it exists!

Someone told us that the hike till Grunas waterfall is easier than that to the Blue Eye, but I am not so sure. We did not manage to start early to avoid the midday heat, so we were sweating after a few minutes.

Soon after the start the path crosses a red bridge above the river, which I recognised from pretty pictures I have seen online. Pretty or not: the bridge is really old, missing some wooden planks and I was a bit scared to carry my children through it. The last steps from the bridge onto the real path lead across two rocks with a deep while in between. My in-laws decided to turn back when other tourist told us there would have been an alternative path straight ahead, when we took the bridge on the right. When taking the alternative, you have to walk through a shallow brook - I can imagine this may not be possible in the spring when the snow is melting and the stream is heavier.

After this adventure and some more climb uphill we reached Kunora e Grunasit, a nice grass-covered terras-bar, with trees protecting from the sun. A great place to have a drink or some snacks, look at the chicken wandering around, relax in a swing or try on a traditional Albanian hat and pretend drinking coffee!

After this pause the path soon becomes more difficult: steep and uneven. On a positive note, except for one fork, there is always just one way to go. That single crossroad is clearly marked as well, at least if you are willing to overlook the spelling.

After the fork the path becomes steep and rocky

Once you conquer the hill ( the total walk time is about 30-45 minutes depend on your speed) you will be rewarded with a marvellously looking waterfall!

Swimming in the Grunas waterfall

This time I managed to immerse into the icecold water and it was a fantastic feeling! Afterwards I filled up my bottle from the very same water. How amazing is that!

After the hike we had a late lunch at Villa Gjeçaj Guesthouse and Restaurant. It is a lovely setting in a spacious garden, with tables far from each other, so you feel like you are sitting in your own summer house. I took a seat with a beautiful view on the mountains. I got a bit disappointed when I had to move to the other side to help feed M. But then I looked up and saw another chain of majestic mountain peaks! I felt like I could stay here forever.

Unfortunately, it was time for our company to head back to the south, which promises different kind of natural wonders.

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