Day 1: Passau - Engelhartszell

After arriving the evening before to Passau, leaving our cars at the Parkhaus Bahnhofstraße (safe and not too expensive, recommended by our hotel), we headed on foot to the city center to pick up our rental bikes from Fahrradklinik Passau. My parents had their own electrical bikes, while me and my husband rented regular tour bikes. We were going to pull our kids in our own bike trailer that we brought by car, and we rented an extra trailer and 2 pairs of side bags for our luggages. This allowed us to have everything we may need for the 4 nights for the 6 of us (i.e. 4 adults and 2 children).

It was a beautiful sunny Saturday morning in Passau, ideal for a stroll on the stone-paved streets along shops and cosy cafès. We enjoyed so much that we lost track of time, until the bike rental called us on the phone to let us know they are closing in a few minutes at 12:00 (it was a holiday weekend). I am still grateful that they waited for us, as well as for the quality equipment they provided.

It is not far from the bike rental where the 3 rivers of Passau meet and flow into one another: the Ilz, the Inn and the Danube. The place is known as Dreiflüßeecke or Three River Confluence; and it features a nice shady playground for kids and scenic views and some info boards for the adults. It is indeed very interesting to see how first the black water of the Ilz mixes into the blue Danube, and a few dozens of meters further this mass of water is pushed aside by the green Inn.

After the park we walked along the riverbank and then back up on the cobblestoned streets to visit the Niedernburg Monastery, where Blessed Gisela, the wife of the king Saint Stephen I of Hungary is buried. Gisela has played an important role in spreading Christianity and western culture in Hungary. After Stephen’s death she moved to Bavaria, joined the Niedernburg convent in Passau and became its abbess. She lived here until her death. Her tomb is a respected place of pilgrimage.

It was almost 4pm when we left Passau after lunch. Much later than expected, but still comfortably doable for the planned itinerary of 28km till Engelhartszell.

It is possible to bike on both sides of the Danube. Despite our hotel being on the south side we chose the north side, which was supposed to offer nicer scenery according to some sources. Big mistake! We knew that the crossing between the Haus am Strom and Jochenstein power station was temporarily closed (it is open again since the summer of 2024!!), we counted on catching a ferry at Obernzell or later at Kramesau. Turns out the last ride at Obernzell is at 16:30; surprisingly early! The one at Kramesau runs till 18:30, but, - due to leaving a backback behind at one if our stops and then searching for it - long story short, we did not make it for that either. We had to go all the way to Niederranna bridge to cross the Danube and cycle back till Engelhartszell. This means we cycled 45 kms instead of the planned 28. I have to emphasise here that we were rather slow due to pulling the trailer with regular bikes; as well as the electric bikes being discharged. We reached our hotel in the dark, after its restaurant and reception has closed and the whole village seemed to be asleep already. I was sure we will go to bed with an empty stomach! Luckily, the night receptionist was very nice to open up the kitchen to warm up pizzas and make 2 croque monsier for us. I think i never enjoyed a hot ham and cheese sandwich before in my life!

Our day thus had a happy ending, but I still wish I had a handy guide on Danube crossings with me at that time.